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Hairdressers have always moved among commoners and kings, but they have achieved their greatest popularity at three points in history: shortly before the decline of Greece, just before the French Revolution - and today.
Chapter 1 - There’s Lovely New You Ahead.
“When I look into a woman’s hair I look into her very soul,” pronounced the great Antoine, the first and, at seventy-six, the most enduring of the twentieth century’s special breed of internationally famous hair stylists.
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Chapter 2 - Hairdressers-Past And Present
Hairdressers have always moved among commoners and kings, but they have achieved their greatest popularity at three points in history: shortly before the decline of Greece, just before the French Revolution—and today.
Study the greatest art works of all time and it will be obvious that there have always been great hairdressers. In fact, some of the greatest hair stylists of all time never touched comb or scissors to a woman’s hair. They are the painters: Botticelli, da Vinci, Giorgione, Watteau, Titian, Ghirlandaio, and Raphael. Beautifully arranged hair plays a major part in many of their finest works.
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Chapter 3 - Grow Accustomed To Your Face
The shape of your face plays a vital role in the shaping of your most flattering hair style. But it is not the only featured player in this production.
Despite all the pat charts you’ve seen on what to do if your face is round as the moon or faceted like a diamond, the truth is nothing is that simple.
There is, fortunately, infinite variety in every face. And what may be most becoming to your round face may be completely wrong for your pointed nose. Something has to give. You must, therefore, experiment endlessly and usually compromise somewhere.
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Chapter 4- Never cut your own hair.
There is only one thing you really have to know about hair cutting and that is—don’t try it yourself!
Styling and shaping is an art even the finest hairdressers admit has taken them a lifetime to master; the most honest add, “And I’m still learning.”
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Chapter 5 -Brushing For Beautiful Hair
Could you possibly resist an offer which guaranteed:
Free!! No coupons. No box tops. Shining, healthier, more manageable hair in a matter of weeks.
Plus these extra attractions:
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Chapter 6 - Perms, waves and curls.
Today, when a woman gets a permanent what she’s really paying for is to look as though she had never had one. A few years ago she expected to wait at least two weeks before her hair settled down to something manageable. Now, a permanent-wave expert can make her hair look touched only by nature the very first day.
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Chapter 7 - At The Hair Salon
Some women spend a good part of their lives in beauty salons while others rarely go at all. Still others dispatch private planes equipped with butlers and steaming casseroles to transport their favorite hairdressers back to London or New York for a midsummer styling.
Hair stylists are giving them the emotional uplift they need, and the quest for the ideal hair stylist, as well as the quest for beauty, is eternal.
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Chapter 8 - Never Say Dye…Say Rinse, Tint, Lighten
Nature may have given you dishwater hair and pale lips, but she also gave you an indomitable spirit.
Unless you are a member of a distinct minority you probably began experimenting with lipstick soon after you emerged from the cradle.
And, today, your most flattering hair color is very likely not the one nature gave you but one waiting in a bottle, ready to be released like a good genie to spread its colorful magic through your hair.
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Chapter 9 - Gray Hair
“Only the good dye young.” Barbara Stanwyck frequently turns a cliché when asked why she prefers to polish her silvery locks rather than to bleach or tint.
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Chapter 10- Match Make-Up To Your New Hair Color
Suddenly your hair is the golden blonde, vibrant red or smouldering black of your dreams. But your old makeup only seems to clash.
In case no one has told you, new hair colors demand new make-ups. So erase your old color patterns from your mind and start studying an exciting new spectrum.
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Chapter 11 - Problem Hair
Caution: Fine Hair—Handle With Care
Skin like a baby’s may be every woman’s lifelong desire. But hair like a baby’s? Soft and silken as it may be to an admirer’s touch, its picture-book wisps are more unmanageable than an unruly two-year-old. Ask any woman who must cope daily with this hair that just never grew up.
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Chapter 12 - Now, Be An Angel
While there’s nothing so attractive as a head with every hair in place, there’s nothing so unappealing as one which resembles chaos—especially when it lands in somebody else’s soup. When you’re on your way to a very special appointment and the wind wreaks havoc with your hair, there’s always a nearby tearoom or hotel powder room to slip into in order to repair the damages.
One exception to the combing-in-public rule is at the beach after a dip. But if you do comb at the beach, do it discreetly. And remember, if you wear your hair seasonally short for the summer, and if it’s well styled, you’ll be able to whip it into beautiful shape seconds after a swim.
Always be prepared for emergencies, and be sure your comb—in fact all of your beauty tools—are constantly immaculate. Many women would be embarrassed today if their purses were to slip from their hands and an unsightly comb were to fall out.
Keeping your hair secrets from the world also means wearing your hair clips exclusively in the privacy of your own home. Surely there’s a more attractive way to arrive at work than to parade through the streets looking like a hardware display counter.
Resist, also, the temptation of playing with wisps of your hair when you’re nervous or uncomfortable because you know your hair isn’t looking its best. And bear in mind that the secret of hair etiquette is good styling. When hair is well shaped, it stays in place.
The facts contained in this article may seem like a tremendous amount of information to put under your hairdo, but don’t be alarmed; remember that most of the information in these pages can be summed up in two words: common sense. Always remember that your hair is your most versatile feature, and it can be not merely your most attractive one, but you can depend on it to make your other features appear more attractive. Make the most of it!
Only a foolish woman lets her hair down. Scrimp where you can to give your hair First Lady care. Your husband won’t think any more of you for trying to cut corners on beauty. In fact, chances are if you do, he’ll think of you less.
This doesn’t mean you must spend a fortune on hairdressers. Quite the opposite. It means getting at least two expert stylings a year—or four if you can afford them—and maintaining them in perfect shape.
It’s your responsibility to learn how to make your hair look salon perfect between appointments. And only you can keep it shiningly healthy by eating wisely, brushing your hair carefully and regularly, and being sure you get ample rest and fresh air. The most celebrated hairdresser can’t accomplish miracles with neglected hair.
The best hairdresser for you is not the most widely publicized one. He’s the man who best understands the texture of your hair, the shape of your face, your personality, and way of life.
Practice using pin curls and rollers until you can set your hair as well as your hairdresser does. Practice often enough and you’ll soon be creating your own styles.
Insist on only the best permanents and hair color jobs— they are the most economical in the long run.
Keep your fingers on the pulse of fashion, but don’t follow it slavishly—adopt only those features of current fashion which will be most flattering to you.
Try new products. Who knows, the product which will solve one of your special hair problems may at this very moment be on the production line. And always buy sample sizes of new products before investing in giant, economy sizes.
Remember it’s no longer naughty to color. It is naughty not to take advantage of the beautiful effects color can create in your hair.
Read directions carefully, and follow them faithfully. And never apply products recklessly one on top of the other. Think before you take a step. Avoid shampoos that are too strong, and use sprays sparingly.
Keep an open mind about styles—be willing to experiment with new ones. Hair, fortunately, does grow out again. Keep a good head on your shoulders—remember all this—and a good-looking head of hair should be yours.
Now that you have washed and conditioned your hair, you probably want to dry it. The secret of safe drying is timing. The best way is to pat it dry with a towel and leave to dry naturally, the obvious alternative is to use a dryer, but we all know that dryers dry out your hair and can split the ends. As with many things in life it is not what you do but how you do it.
Moisture is as important to the hair as it is to skin. It is moisture not oil that keeps hair soft and resilient. Overuse of a dryer can rob the hair of this precious moisture.
To use a dryer correctly follow these simple steps:
Towel drying.
After shampooing avoid the temptation of vigorously rub your hair with a towel, this can break your hair.
Instead press the towel into your hair to remove excess water. Then carefully ease out the tangles with a wide toothed comb starting from the ends up.
After shampooing avoid the temptation of vigorously rub your hair with a towel, this can break your hair.
Instead press the towel into your hair to remove excess water. Then carefully ease out the tangles with a wide toothed comb starting from the ends up.
Using the hairdryer.
Hold the dryer about six inches away. Dry the back and sides of your head first, and work towards the crown and front. Start using a high speed and high temperature setting on the dryer, as the hair becomes dry; reduce the setting to a lower temperature.
Hold the dryer about six inches away. Dry the back and sides of your head first, and work towards the crown and front. Start using a high speed and high temperature setting on the dryer, as the hair becomes dry; reduce the setting to a lower temperature.
If you are using a brush for styling, choose one made of soft, pliable plastic and use it gently, as a brush can do more damage than a hairdryer.
Finishing off.
When the hair is almost dry, turn down the heat and reduce the speed, check the hair constantly, as this the point that damage is most likely to occur. Ideally, the hair should be left slightly damp, but if you need your hair absolutely dry, it is vital to stop drying at the right time. That extra few seconds can dry out the moisture content in the hair cells and lead to brittleness, dullness, breakage and split ends.
When the hair is almost dry, turn down the heat and reduce the speed, check the hair constantly, as this the point that damage is most likely to occur. Ideally, the hair should be left slightly damp, but if you need your hair absolutely dry, it is vital to stop drying at the right time. That extra few seconds can dry out the moisture content in the hair cells and lead to brittleness, dullness, breakage and split ends.
The trick to perfect blow dries is using the right styling products and learning how to use the right sized brushes in conjunction with the blow dryer for the desired results.
What you’ll need for that professional Hairdressers finish:
- A paddle or round brush.
- A hairdryer with a nozzle to concentrate and direct air flow and reduce frizz.
- Large clips to hold up sections of the hair that you are not working on.
- Products to help smooth and straighten hair.
More about brushes and combs
- Generally speaking its better to use a comb rather than a brush as it is gentler on the hair. If you prefer brushing, then choosing the right type of brush is important.
- Remember that a paddle brush is for blow-drying straight styles while a round brush is for encouraging bend, volume and texture. Vary the size of the brush “head” according to how much hair you are working with and how loose or tight you want the look or texture.
- Vigorous brushing weakens the hair by removing some of the cuticle – the outer cell layer. It breaks it off and, by constant traction, pulls the hair out. Furthermore, any sharp points remove the top layer of skin. Choose a brush with long, widely spaced, plastic bristles. Plastic bristles are smoother, blunter and kinder than natural bristles., which tend to be sharper and tufted together. Above all, avoid anything with metal prongs.
- Brushing hair should never be regarded as exercising it. Try brushing a wool sweater 40 times a day and see how quickly it wears out. Also do not pull at tangles after shampooing: It is better to remove them with a comb first starting at the bottom of the length of hair and working up the shaft. Over brushing wet hair can easily snap hair like a rubber band.
- When choosing the correct comb, never use a metal one. Choose one that does not have an obvious molding seam as this can tear at your hair, feel the comb carefully ensuring that there are no rough edges. It is vital when using brushes and combs to make sure they are cleansed regularly, as they are prone to collect dirt.
Products
The products you use on your hair before you blow dry can make all the difference in the results. Listed below is a general overview of hair textures and recommended blow drying products:
- Fine and thin strands do better with lighter products such as mousse or gel mousse combinations.
- Medium textured hair can behave well with lighter products such as mousse or gel mousse as well as with regular gel, glaze, liquids and creams.
- Thickly textured hair needs heavier products such as extra strength mousse, gel, creams or wax.
- For stick straight blow dries, utilize temporary straightening products such as straightening creams, gels, balms, glaze or other liquids.
- Enhance curls with products designed to give them body and definition.
- Encourage natural waves with mousse, gel/mousse and gel products.
- Keep in mind that the less styling products that you use, the softer the set.
- Use a heat protectorant product if hair is prone to damage.
Learning to skillfully use a brush and a blow dryer at the same time
Many people have to practice using a brush in one hand and a dryer in the other in such a manner as to be able to successfully anchor the section of hair being dried with the brush while still directing airflow from the top down.
- By dividing hair into several manageable sections that are 2-4 inches in thickness, the rest of the hair can be “clipped out of the way” and there is less hair to worry about for the moment. This allows easier co-ordination between a brush and blow dryer because less hair is in play at any one time.
- Those who blow-dry at home need to understand that a perfect blow-dried style: whether for straight, curly or a wavy look, takes time. Whether you’re using a paddle brush to achieve stick straight hair or a long finger diffuser attachment to encourage curls and waves, it is best to go very slowly and focus on each individual section of hair before moving to the next one.
- The heat from the blow dryer “opens the cuticle and allows a style to be formed”. Finishing a section with a blast of cool/cold air from the blow dryer will help to close the newly created texture or lock in the straightness of the section. Start with hot and finish with cold on every section to first build in the desired style and then lock in the style.
- Forget shaking the blow dryer, One mistake that many people make is that they feel the need to “shake their blow dryers back and forth”. This really doesn’t have any benefit at all to the hair; worrying about overheating individual sections is unnecessary. The way to avoid overheating is not to shake the nozzle but to use a medium heat setting, hold the nozzle at least 6 inches away from the head and not direct the airflow at any one section more than a few seconds at a time.
- To get that super sleek straight look, the airflow from the blow dryer needs to be directed “down” the hair shaft from the roots until the ends.
How to:
- First, it is important to begin with just washed hair, especially if you want the look to last more than a day. Start by patting wet hair with a towel until the excess moisture has been removed, then shape the hair into the style that you want. Never blow-dry hair that is dripping wet or 100% dry. Totally wet hair takes too long to dry. Blow drying hair that is completely dry will easily damage and burn your hair.
- Gently detangle your hair, using a wide toothcomb. Part your hair and comb in the direction you want your hair to fall.
- Clip the top half of your hair on top of your head. Now you can start to blow dry hair at the nape of your neck and work towards the top of your head in 1″-2″ sections.
- However, if there is a particular problem area, for example the front tends to wave or curl or you develop odd drying patterns, those areas should be dried first.
- If your goal is to straighten the hair, use the brush to stroke hair from root to ends, directing the hot air on hair as you comb the brush through.
- If you want to keep some of your hairs natural texture, blow dry hair by directing the hair drier towards the roots and combing through the hair with your fingers.
- Work your way through the back of the hair and through the sides. When you reach the top sections of your hair, use a brush to lift hair straight up and blow dry. Raising the hair from the scalp in this way will help to add volume to your hair.
When hair is almost dry, the style you want will decide how you should finish the blow-drying.
If you want extra straight hair, keep blow-drying hair as before until hair is completely dry. Then, use a styling iron all over the hair and add a smoothing pomade to finish the look.
If you want a more textured look, separate small sections of hair and lift them up. Twist each section slightly and apply a low heat until each section is dry. Then, allow each section to fall naturally and shake head slightly to let the hair fall into a natural position.
If you like to add a slight curl or wave at the ends of your hair, use the round brush to curl hair into the shape and angle of your choice and dry each part until thoroughly dry. You can create more texture by using styling gel and your fingers to shape individual sections of hair. When blow drying, it is vital to make sure the hair is completely dry so to prevent frizz. Complete the look with gentle holding spray.
For volume: Use a round brush to give hair lift, control, or fullness. Use a wide-toothed vent brush parallel to the hairline and lift the hair up and towards the crown putting a slight crease at the root, so to put the lift in at the roots before styling the rest.
Use a few large Velcro rollers around the crown when the hair is still warm from blow-drying; this can give added lift. Put them in, spray with hairspray and then dry for five minutes with a hairdryer before allowing them to cool down properly.
Now is the time to make the final adjustments to your hair. Brush it through for a more controlled look or use your fingers to comb through or place hair for a softer look. The old “head flip” with a pinch of hair spray is an easy way to add support and extra volume and fullness.
Wavy hair: use a shine-enhancing shampoo and conditioner, but make sure you rinse your hair well. After washing your hair, smooth and separate wet strands with a wide-tooth comb, then cover it with shine enhancing hair spray from its ends to roots. For the best results, dry your hair using a hairdryer with a tapered nozzle to direct air down the hair shaft and seal the cuticle.
Other tips
- Dry Hair Faster: To make your hair styling quicker and easier, wrap your head in a towel for a good 5-10 minutes after shampooing and conditioning so that when it comes to drying your hair the towel would have absorbed most of the excess water.
- Fringe Finesse: For an unruly fringe not sitting correctly due to a cowlick, blow dry fringe in the opposite direction. This will give root lift and settle the cowlick and allow hair to be more settled when placed back in its normal position.
- Beat the Frizz: To avoid frizzy hair always blow dry down and never up. By blow-drying down you will smooth all the cuticles the one way avoiding fuzz.
- Oily hair: Alternatively, if you have straight hair, use a deep-cleansing shampoo daily to stop the hair becoming greasy when it sits naturally against your scalp. You could also use a clarifying gel at the roots once a week to prevent oil building up. After blow-drying you hair, use hair strengtheners to enhance your hair’s shine and keep it perfectly straight.
- Finally: do not overload your hair with styling products, have it trimmed regularly at a hairdressers (every three to four weeks for short hair, and every six to eight weeks for longer hair), and invest in the best hairdressing products for your hair, as recommended by your hairdresser.
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